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News and chat about surf culture, characters, competition and coaching from Surf Simply.
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Thursday Jan 07, 2016
Thursday Jan 07, 2016
Ru talks with William Finnegan about his New York Times best seller, "Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life". Only Bill Finnegan could have written a book like this being uniquely placed as both: a lifelong surfer and explorer (he was one of the first to surf Tavarua); but with the writing chops of a respected international journalist and staff writer at The New Yorker.